How to sharpen and make fine-tuning instrument using sandpaper In the category Repair Tools Many people are interested in knowledge and learning about many subjects, this knowledge may be vital at some point in your life, attention enough, and dive into more detail more articles and learn more information about How to sharpen and make fine-tuning instrument using sandpaper.
Any cutting tool in the process of operation sooner or later blunt. If it is “disposable”, it has one road-to a landfill. If the tool is really restored, why not take advantage of this opportunity? Based on this, we decided to prepare an article on how to “lead in a sense” cutting tool.
We’ll clarify the terminology. The Cutting Edge (hereinafter RK) of the tool is formed by two converging planes (or curves, as at a drill). The sharpening angle is the angle at the top of the convergence of these planes. Edge sharpness can be represented as a value, inverse width of a “platform” on a top or diameter of a circle inscribed in it. Almost the same as the surface converging surfaces, the more acute will be RK. Sharpening angles at different instruments differ and depending on the quality of steel and cut material make up: the chisel-17-25 degrees, the shirt gland-25-40, the chisel-30-40, the chisel on the metal-up to 60, scissors-45-60, knives-20-30 degrees.
All cutting tools in terms of sharpening techniques can be roughly divided into “knives” (that is, that is longer than the width of the sharpening stone) and “cutters” (what is already a stone: saws, cutters, cutters and drills). The techniques of sharpening the latter differ from everything else.
To the category of “knives”, except for the knives themselves, we will carry scissors, knives electrofuganks and surface gauge, as well as other long number. Important Note: Scissors and knives of woodworking equipment are turned on only one side.
Before sharpening the tool should be cleaned of dirt, sawdust, resin and other things, as these substances easily and irreversibly hammer grinding stone.
First you need to consider the RK and decide which abrasive to start. If the knife is new or strongly blunt, it is possible to start with a rough stone. A good sharpening is just the ability to withstand the same angle when moving on a stone. Important Note: Never sharpen knives on a high-speed sharpening wheel-it instantly releases and burns the RK.
So, wet the grindstone with water, put it on the old newspapers or better in the recess, hollowed out in a blackboard in the shape of a stone, and drive a knife along the stone, observing the angle of sharpening. The knife should run on the stone at an angle as close as possible to the straight. But as the stone is narrow, it is necessary to make some inclined movement, moving a knife on a diagonal, that is simultaneously along a stone and along a knife.
Big mistake will sharpen the RK plots. Absolutely accurate transition will not work-formed a step, and the knife will be badly cut. Tochim until the edge is wrapped up burr, which is a slight movement of the finger across the knife from the ear to the edge (not along-cut!). When the Burr appears along the entire length, the knife must be turned upside down and sharpen the other side.
Do not try to bleed only those areas where there is no burr. The continuous burr shows that one facet of the cutting edge of the knife has received the entire length of the plane. When the second side is sharpened the burr will appear on the already sharpened, it is necessary to turn over a knife again and to pass on more small abrasive.
The smaller the abrasive grains, the smoother the chamfer and the sharper the edge. After the fine stone it is necessary to pass to Emery paper, Posellelom an abrasive upwards on a smooth surface, for example on a piece of glass or steel or on a flat part of a workbench.
Usually use first cheap double-sided grindstone and then, sequentially, sandpaper with grit 120, 400, 600 (or 800) and sometimes 1200. The most difficult and simple at the same time-to withstand the same angle at all movements of the knife. According to the author, the practice is better than any ingenious devices-they break down and also cost much more than a stone, which, incidentally, is also present in them. The trick is to move the sharpening tool with the stationary wrist and look closely at the upper plane of the instrument. Then the angle is very accurate.
Scissors sharpen only with a chamfer, adjoining to other branche a plane only level on a shallow emery.
Fugankov knives are also sharpened only with chamfer. Their peculiarity is that it is necessary to apply often an edge to a ruler or glass to see a straight-out of RK and to avoid its rounding.
Chisels and Shirts
Chisels and shirts have a lot in common. At strong sharpening or potholes on a cutting edge which arise because of knots or nails, it is necessary to profile RK first. By the way, the same comes in the manufacture of wood cutter from hardened billet.
Here we will need a high-quality electric power. Often the maskaya gland in water for cooling, it is necessary to make a chamfer with a corner a little sharper 25 degrees. In any case do not thin an edge of a piece of iron before occurrence RK as the huge friction of an abrasive on metal heats last and at attempt of sharpening on high-speed stone RK will be immediately released and the tool is spoiled.
When the thickness of the edge will be about half a millimeter, it is necessary to check the perpendicular to the RC axis or the side of the shirt gland.
You can finally sharpen the gland in two ways. Best of all-on a low-speed electrical outlet with wet stone (pouring water into the pallet and evenly pressing the iron to the stone). If the width of the last is insufficient, it is necessary to drive a piece of iron from side to side.
If you do not have such a sharpening, you will have to work manually on the abrasive bar moistened with water. It is good to put it in a recess in a board-it is easier to hold. Zhelezko put on a stone under the chosen angle or easier-a facet on a stone, shaking forward and backward until it will rise all a facet. They are focused on the stone and back, and it is better to describe the future cutting edge of the eight to achieve uniform wear of the stone and to preserve its flatness. When the Burr appears, put the iron plane on the stone and a pair of movements remove it, and then move to a smaller abrasive, for example, turning the double-sided stone.
Final sharpening-laid on the glass sandpaper different degree of grain.
A little trick. Bolt with nut and two large washers can be used as a simple device for holding the correct angle of the shirt iron (see figure).
Saws on a tree, as a rule, are sold not always sharp enough (and the large-toothed in the majority-simply blunt). Again there is a necessity of sharpening, and for each kind of work it own.
If the saw is not divorced enough, it is first bred. If at hand there is no specialized wiring, it is possible to dispense with pliers. The saw is clamped in a vise by teeths upwards, sit down so to look along a cloth, and unbend teeths in different directions through one, at each movement tilting pliers on the same corner. Usually a small wiring is always initially, and it should be simply enlarged, if you have a case with raw wood or large saws. If the saw is small and for exact works, it is possible to leave and factory wiring.
The teeth are sharpened with a triangular file with the inside (in relation to the wiring) side. File keep so that the angle of the RK was 60-45 degrees. In fact, it is easier and faster to sharpen first one side of the teeth, and then, turning the saw, sharpen the teeth of the other side. In this case, the movement is more similar-the saw turns out more acute.
At sharpening saws It is better to work one and in silence, having turned off disturbances in the form of radio and TV as careless movement either spoils the tool, or causes difficult healing wound.
Tip: If when cutting the saw tends to go sideways, it means that the teeth are divorced unevenly-you need to increase their deviation from the side in which the saw leads.
Disk saws are sharpened from the back surface, at work turned to the processed material. The front, which when sawing runs on the material, remains as it is.
The disk can be sharpened or directly in the machine (if it is a snap for the machine), or by pulling out of the machine/circular. In the first case, you must first pull the plug out of the socket to avoid accidentally starting the machine. The disk should be podklinit, having put from two parties from it on a thin wood and having pressed them to teeth. The tooth from which sharpening begins, it is necessary to mark a marker on the lateral party that not to be mistaken in work. Sharpening the first tooth, remember the number of movements with a file or diamond Nadfilem-all other teeth to sharpen with the same effort and the same number of movements of abrasive tools, as the first.
If the disc has been removed from the machine, clamp it in the vise and perform the same procedures as described above.
Next, the disc should be returned to the machine and saw the unnecessary wood. In case of high noise or uneven feeding, it is necessary to check whether the tooth height is the same. For this purpose to a cutting edge bring a felt-tip and slowly turn a disk by a hand on one turn in a direction, a reverse direction of rotation. Each tooth will have a mark. After inspecting the disc, you can find the teeth that are higher or lower than others. If the difference is great, you should carefully reduce the height of too long teeth.
The cutter’s sharpening is conducted on the back or front surface.
Shaped end mills are easier to sharpen on the front surface-either thin diamond bar, or (with a narrow flute) sandpaper, wrapped around the slats of solid wood or strips of steel. As the front surface is drawn, the edge is sharpened and the diameter of the cutter decreases (slightly).
With a cutter with a guide bearing, first remove the bearing and then sharpen them. Trying to save a minute will end with a ruined bearing and a spoiled cutter.
Turning cutters are focused on the front and back surfaces. Nuance there only one-cutter narrows downwards, therefore that its lateral planes in any case did not touch with preparation, the contact should be only on a cutting edge.
The cutters are made of high speed and with hard-alloy napapkami sharpen on the sharpening circle. If there is no water supply on the machine, you should often dip the cutter into the water tank.
At sharpening of a drill it is necessary to keep them so that to receive the desirable angle of convergence of cutting faces. The RK should be symmetrical.
The simplest way is to hold the line with the marker and hold the drill parallel to it. However simply to put a drill on a line is not enough, it is necessary also to turn it on the necessary angle around an axis, and then on 180 degrees relative to the first position. Practically, the angle between the edge of the drill and the table plane is required, i.e. the outer edge should be lower than the center, otherwise the drill will not cut the material, but drive on it with the back surface. To control this angle there are different devices, but it is easier to stand or sit at the table so that the glare from the illumination was on the outside of the cutting edge, and then, without changing the position of the body, turn the drill in the fingers and again catch the glare-the edges will be sharpened under One angle.
Sharpening of a drill on a back surface is called as single, at it there is a rather big jumper in the center which does not cut, and skablit metal. If it is sharpened, the drilling speed will increase. There are many ways to point jumpers. In factories it is manipulated by thin abrasive or diamond circles or on a corner of a wide stone. But you can grind the jumper as shown in the photo. Glasses are strictly obligatory!
To facilitate the work of sharpening tools there are various electrical and grinding machines.
The choice of electrocurrent is extremely simple. Such machine consists of an asynchronous engine (similar motors are mastered by industry), grinding circles (they are replaceable and change by means of a wrench) and housings. If the sharpened is taken not for industrial application, the mark does not have such big value. Such equipment includes a short time, and its resource will be spent extremely slowly-even inexpensive machine for many years.
The diameter of the circle directly affects the price of the toner, so the master-lover or small enterprise should not chase the big diameters.
When inspecting the electrical outlet before purchase, try to stir the shaft. If it not only rotates, but also walks-before you marriage. Spin the stone with your hand and look at the free end of the shaft, does it vibrate? Best of all, of course, turn on the grindstone, but not in all magazin do it.
Grinding machines are divided into three groups.
The first one is actually high-speed (about 3000 rpm) electrified, equipped with interchangeable holders for different types of tools.
The second is a bridle
You continually put off their grinding tools, until they finally will become blunted? Then we offer you a fairly simple and cheap way of how you can return their old tools. Using this method, your blade tools will always Sand perfect condition. Why do you need it? Well, at least for the simple reasons that sharp tools work is easier, more accurate and, most importantly, safer. If, say, the same chisel easily cuts the wood, then you don’t have to put a lot of effort.
Thus it is unlikely to fly and will not damage the surface or, even scarier, hand. In doing so, using the proper technique for sharpening, you don’t have to spend a lot of time sharpening process. Although it is necessary to consider and what time sharpening depends on such circumstances as the hardness of the steel and the condition of the cutting edge. On average, something that would give a chisel razor sharpness takes about ten minutes. Simple things sometimes can achieve stunning results.
There are many tools for sharpening is a natural diamond and synthetic sticks and stones, as well as electric grinding machines. However, the sandpaper has its advantages before all the above means. Coated abrasive materials effectively metal, gives a flat edge and plus is cheap. For best results, it is best to use black paper for wet and dry sanding, which uses an abrasive of silicon carbide, since grain silicon carbide is harder other abrasives. You hit the sheets of paper with a gradually decreasing the size of grains, and you will be able to return earlier severity of all instruments in the Studio. For work it is advisable to use a firm and flat surface possible. For example, You can use a sheet of plywood. If the surface is too smooth glass or plastic, for example-and the paper suddenly begins to slide on it, then it is necessary to moisten it with water. Evaluate the quality of work by using the magnifiers used by photographers during the examination of your prints and negatives. The most important thing when sharpening the sandpaper is to maintain the exact angle of the blade.
Whet sharpen or not-that is the question. Any ways of sharpening using sandpaper on a flat surface of the blade bevel and every time you have to grind down the metal with all facets. However, this is not a problem if you regularly spend sharpening their tools. During the polishing put on a flat surface slightly abrasive powder and work the same way as with the sandpaper. In order to Polish the cutting edge missing a few movements. Most of the masters can be difficult to assess the quality of sharpening-for this case, you can enlist the help of a magnifying glass. This can be a simple Magnifier with an eightfold increase, which assures not light, and you will then be able to see all the flaws.
There are many tools for sharpening is a natural diamond and synthetic sticks and stones, as well as electric grinding machines. However, the sandpaper has its advantages before all the above means. Coated abrasive materials effectively metal, gives a flat edge and plus is cheap. using sandpaper on feet using sandpaper on skin can you use sandpaper on your feet like sandpaper feet feel like sandpaper.